There’s the echo of a Roxy Music video in Hedi Slimane’s latest, and possibly last, collection for fashion house
Since 2012, when designer Hedi Slimane began his reboot of the Saint Laurent brand, the label has been closely linked with music. Whether that be the young indie bands which populated the front row of his shows to the chagrin of uptight fashion editors banished to the rows behind them,
then again the layouts themselves which are a great part of the time dosed with gig society – Glastonbury wellies and Courtney Love tiaras were a component of his last show up in Paris. Supporters of the brand are routinely the people who play music as a calling, from Justin Bieber to Keith Richards.
So it was huge that at the Blessed individual Laurent show in Paris on Monday evening – the second part of the brand’s fall gathering which began in blockbuster gig outline in LA a month prior – that there was no catwalk music by any stretch of the creative ability. Maybe, the soundtrack was basically the voice of Benedicte de Ginestous pronouncing the arrival of each of the outfits. “Numero un … number one,” she declared in a tone pronto exorbitantly enthusiastic furthermore persuading. The significance of this device was not lost on the social occasion of individuals arranged on redid seats in marble-overpowering salons – de Ginestous proclaimed the amounts of each quest for Yves Heavenly individual Laurent’s couture shows up some place around 1977 and 2002.
If the catwalk bingo calling device and the mannered musical show seats paid appreciation to the house’s history, the dresses themselves were nine areas Slimane, to one segment Yves Sacred individual Laurent. Each of the 42 looks resonated one overpowering thought – that of a savage late 1980s social event young woman – with the odd signal to the name’s exceptional trademarks hurled in. The take-home picture was that of a blended beverage minidress-wearing woman with slicked-back hair, overpowering lipstick, sheer tights, a wide belt and a too much enthusiastic shoulder purpose of hobby. Picture a woman moving in a Roxy Music video and you get the starting stage. Make her dress shorter, shinier, and razor cut to a millimeter of her breathing breaking point, opening in the odd sequinned catsuit, biker coat and puffball skirt and you have the full picture. The organizer himself called the look a reference to built up article style,with slicked-back hair and red lips of a zillion Helmut Newton inspired magazine covers throughout fashion’s recent history.
guests were squealing about the bits of tattle this will be Slimane’s last show up for the brand, with maker Anthony Vaccarello intensely to succeed him. Yet, before the end of the illustrate, the gathering of spectators were considering whether they had without a doubt seen the foremost couture show under Slimane. The brand announced that for this demonstrat to it had restored the couture ateliers in Paris and Angiers – a course of action Slimane has had for the house since taking the rudder. He has moreover said that the reason he at initially dropped the Yves from the stamping was to at last make some information exchange limit and checking space for a restored couture line at some point or another. In addition, this amassing happened in a restored seventeenth century estate – L’hotel de Senecterre in Sacred individual German which it is calling its new “couture house”. At the end of the demonstrat to, it wasn’t clear whether the is was truly the end of the Slimane period, or fundamentally the start of Slimane’s second speak to Blessed individual Laurent. The last shows up the more likely.